Cheap Grass Seed Mixes To Avoid

Yesterday we discussed incompatible grass mixes that can be commercially purchased. I thought we would extend that train of thought today looking at some of the grass seed mixes that you should avoid. These mixes are traditionally your cheaper products and while the initial cost may be cheaper, over time you could well pay two or three times the cost of quality lawn seed mix.

If you are looking at a grass seed mix that contains the following grasses, be wary – here’s why:

Annual Ryegrass: Often the base seed for cheap products. It will most likely die out during the winter. This means you will need to re-sow the following spring. (Don’t confuse annual with perennial Ryegrasses – perennial Ryegrass can work well in lawns.)

Rough Bluegrass: This is considered a weed by many and doesn’t really blend in well with other grass types. It is a good shade of grass and, when sown on it’s own, can make a good ground cover. As a grass in a mixed lawn, it’s better left out. (This seed is fine in a Bluegrass blend mix.)

Bentgrass: This is also considered by many to be a weed. It does blend in well with most grass types, however, if you like your lawn cut to around two-three inches then it can look quite untidy. It prefers to be cut much lower. It can eventually dominate a lawn. It is not well suited to very hot or very cold conditions, often becoming dormant or dying back and leaving brown patches.

On their own, some of these grasses can be useful. However, they are not quality grasses and don’t make for great lawns so if your seed mix contains any of them, look for a different mix. If you have already planted a mix with these grass types, you will need to do some work over time to over sow with better quality grasses. Use a seeding tool to perforate through any thatch and the soil then sow using a quality lawn seed mix. Water well and, over time, the new grasses will take over from the cheaper varieties.

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Types Of Grass: Beware Incompatible Grass Mixes

We live in an age of convenience and to a point there is nothing wrong with that. However, sometimes what is convenient in the packet is not always convenient in use. Grass seed mixes are a good example. Most quality mixes are designed by professionals and they tend to have a mix of winter and summer grasses that cohabit together well. Other mixes, while able to survive together, are not always compatible in lawns.

Before moving on, it’s important to understand the difference between a grass mix and a grass blend. Grass mixes are made from a range of different grass types. Grass blends are made from the one different type of grass but contains various varieties of that type. A Bermuda blend will contain a mix of various Bermuda grasses. An all purpose mix will contain a mix of summer and winter grass types.

A good example is a summer grass mix that contains Bermuda grass, Zoysia and Tall Fescue. In theory, this mix offers a good lawn coverage throughout summer. Bermuda can take traffic, Tall Fescue is a tough grass in dry conditions, and Zoysia adds to depth in the lawn’s color on top while digging deep root systems underneath.

They can all survive with little water, they like to set down deep roots so weekly deep watering is the best approach, and they form a great color as a lawn. However, that is where the compatibility comes to an end. For best results, Tall Fescue needs to be left at around 3-4 inches in height in summer. Zoysia needs to be around the 2-3 inches while Bermuda Grass should be cut at around 1-2 inches.

You can get away with a Bermuda-Zoysia mix since they can both be cut at 2 inches in summer. If you do like Fescue then you’re better off looking at one of the shorter varieties. If you have a grass seed mix that contains Tall Fescue and you are starting to see small dead or bald patches the problem may well relate to how short you are cutting your lawn. Any lower than three inches and the Tall Fescue will suffer.

For any patches that appear, use a lawn tool to perforate the soil then sow a grass type that is compatible with your current lawn. If you’re not sure of the grass type then select either a Bermuda or Zoysia seed – they will survive with most other grasses. More importantly, ensure your grass types are compatible in all areas, particularly mowing heights. Better still, select a grass blend rather than a grass mix – they are generally better value in the long run.

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Preventing And Removing Crabgrass In Your Lawn

Crabgrass. Some people like it, most despise it, especially when it invades their well-looked-after lawns. Did you know that one of the major factors in any crabgrass attack is a lawn that is too well cared for? Yes, your own actions could be responsible for the next invasion by this weed.

It doesn’t have to be and little less ‘care’ and little more attention to the type of care given will help to prevent weeds like crabgrass from gaining a foothold. Of course, weeds will often find their way in. There is no 100% guarantee of prevention, but you can at least reduce the incidence.

Your first step is to make the environment less inviting. There are two things you can do to achieve this. The first is very simple. Leave your lawn longer – in other words, don’t cut it so short. For summer, leave it at around 2 inches in height. The second step also relates to mowing. When you mow, only take the top 1/3 at most. If you mow regularly, you can reduce this to the top 1/4. Since you are cutting such a small amount, you can leave the clippings in place.

By leaving your grass a little longer you are providing a shade coverage. By leaving the clippings in place, you are putting in a barrier that helps to stop airborne seeds from finding the soil. As I said earlier, you will never eradicate weed problems entirely. However, this method does reduce the number of weeds in a lawn.

Should weeds get in, try to pull them out, roots and all, as soon as they appear. A well maintained lawn should have a reasonably soft underbelly. This means weeds should pull free fairly easily. If the weeds have covered a patch of turf, remove the weeds and oversow with a good summer blend of grass seed. Use a lawn repair tool to get best results as this helps to get the seeds into the soil.

You don’t have to put up with weeds like crabgrass. Just make a small change in the way you cut your lawn. Leaving the clippings in place means you will be spending less time on the mowing and more time enjoying it.

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Another Neat Lawn Repair Trick

Did you know that grass clippings are bad for your lawn? You did? So too do many home gardeners. Here’s some news. Grass clippings are not bad for your lawn. In fact, they can be quite beneficial. You can also put them to good use when repairing bare patches in your lawn.

Now I know what some of you are thinking. How silly. I have a bare patch so the next time I mow I will just sprinkle some lawn clippings on the bare patch and it will look like grass is growing there. It does sound silly, and it is. However, you have the right idea. If you do have bald patches in your lawn then consider this.

Lawn clippings help to conserve water. They also help to prevent weeds from appearing. They can also make a great nursery for new grass seedlings, protecting them from the burning sun. Start by using a grass seeding tool to perforate the soil. Sow your seed and water well then cover the sown patch with around half an inch of grass clippings. Leave it loose on top, don’t compress it.

Within a few weeks you will start to see seedlings appearing amongst the grass clippings. Within six weeks you should have a good cover of grass seedlings and the old grass clippings should be almost lost under the new growth. Once the new grass is well established in that patch, start mowing, taking no more than a third from the top. Do this once or twice then you can just mow this patch the same as the rest of the lawn – bare patch gone. It’s a simple little trick, but one that helps your grass seed to germinate and protects it during the hot summer sun.

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What To Do When Your Lawn Care Program Fails

You know, despite our best attempts, there are some parts of your garden where lawns just won’t grow. Perhaps it’s too shady, it has to compete with tree roots or it could be too wet; or it may be a combination of all three. The reality is, although hardy and able to grow in most areas, some conditions beat even the toughest of grasses. This is when it’s time for a rethink.

As gardeners and home owners, we have to some extent been brain-washed into having lush green lawns. It’s an English tradition that has been incorporated into our lives, even though the climate is not always conducive. The key is finding what will grow in that difficult spot. Ground covers don’t have to be grass. There are hundreds of different ground covers that can be used, and many of these will grow quite happily in areas where grass struggles.

The other area that needs serious thought is on slopes, especially steep embankment type slopes. The grass may look great, but it can be a nightmare to mow. Again, finding an alternative ground cover could make better sense, and perhaps even look better than grass.

Many of these ground covers can be grown from seed and, where possible, this is preferable to buying established plants or seedlings. Sowing seed allows a plant to start life in place. If it survives it will last for years. Established plants can be expensive and often need to be acclimatized to ensure success – and even then, there is no guarantee. The same can be said for seedlings.

For that area where grass doesn’t want to grow, let me make a suggestion. Either select a ground cover and mass plant, or find a combination of ground covers, all of which can be grown from seed. Use a seeding tool to perforate the soil and freely cast your seed. Follow watering directions for those seeds, however, if too much water is one of the problems, then don’t water. Leave the old lawn in place, it will soon be taken over by the new ground cover.

Ground covers look great in areas where grass is not really suitable. They come in a wide range of textures, colors and sizes and, when grown from seed, are well suited to their environment. You don’t have to have lawn everywhere – ground covers often do a far better job.

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Lawn Repairs – Getting A Lot Done In Quick Time

Summer of course does bring pests and they can do considerable damage. What makes matters worse is that the damage tends to be patchy. When you look at your lawn, it can look more like a patchwork quilt than a lush inviting summer lawn. Repairing the damage can appear to be a real chore, perhaps taking up a full weekend or two. There is an easier way to approach it, however.

carry straps for lawn repair toolsPreparation is the key and it helps if you have all the tools on hand now. What is needed is a lawn repair tool - with a carry strap (for convenience); a hose connected to water that has a spray gun attached (and the water turned on); and a seed bag (full of summer blend grass seeds, of course).

Once armed with those three, the rest really becomes a piece of cake. You can repair a decent sized lawn in one afternoon without breaking your back or lifting one sod of turf. The process is very straightforward.

Use the lawn repair tool to perforate the grass and soil over the damaged patch. Sow your seed carefully and give a gentle but good watering. Move onto the next patch. And, yes, it is as simple as that.

I come back to preparation. The hose with gun attached is self explanatory. The lawn repair tool is the real hero of this exercise. It will quickly perforate the old lawn and soil and create perfect perforations for seed germination. A lawn repair tool with a shoulder carry strap makes life even easier. Swing it to the front, create your perforations then swing it to the back. If you’re fortunate to have a seed bag or apron, it is easy enough to sow seed by hand.

These tools and accessories may seem innocuous, but used together will help a gardener repair their lawn in next to no time at all. If you have a Grass Stitcher, I suggest you purchase a carry strap – they are cheap yet save you a lot of time.

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